Pattern (sewing)

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes compounded to the one-word patternmaking, but it can also be written pattern making or pattern cutting.

A sloper pattern, also called a block pattern, is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. The process of changing the size of a finished pattern is called pattern grading.

Several companies, like Butterick Publishing Company and Simplicity Pattern, specialize in selling pre-graded patterns directly to consumers who will sew the patterns at home. These patterns are usually printed on tissue paper and include multiple sizes that overlap each other. An illustrated instruction sheet for use and assembly of the item is usually included. The pattern may include multiple style options in one package.

Commercial clothing manufacturers make their own patterns in-house as part of their design and production process, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker. In [[bespoke clothing, slopers and patterns must be developed for each client, while for commercial production, patterns will be made to fit several standard body sizes.

Pattern making

Main article: Pattern making (for corsets)

The flat-pattern method involves drafting the entire pattern on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers, curves, and straight edges. A pattern maker also utilizes various tools such as a pattern notcher, drill, and awl to mark the pattern. Typically, flat patterning begins with the creation of a "sloper" or "block" pattern: a simple, fitted garment made to the wearer's measurements. For women, this is usually a jewel-neck bodice and narrow skirt, while for men, it consists of an upper sloper and a pants sloper. The final sloper pattern is generally made of corrugated fiberboard (cardboard) or paperboard, without allowance for seams or style details (thicker paper or cardboard permits repeated tracing and pattern development from the original sloper). Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by creating a series of mock-up garments called "toiles" (UK) or "muslins" (US) or "Nessel" in German, the final sloper can be used to create patterns for various garment styles with differing necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so forth. The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used technique in menswear, as menswear rarely involves draping.

The draping method involves creating a mock-up pattern made from a strong fabric, such as calico with a linen weave. The fabric is coarser than muslin but less coarse and thick than canvas or denim. Nevertheless, it remains very affordable due to its unfinished and undyed appearance. Next, by pinning this fabric directly on a dress form, the outline and markings will be transferred onto a paper pattern, or the fabric itself can serve as the pattern. Designers drafting a sculpted evening gown or dress that requires a lot of fabric- typically cut on the bias- will use the draping technique, as achieving this with a flat pattern is quite difficult. This method is also employed for collars.

Each pattern manufacturer has its own size ranges. A distinction is made between a basic pattern, a first pattern, and a production pattern. Patternmakers grade the first cuts to the desired size with the aid of CAD software (computer-aided design). The production pattern must include all information necessary for production and all required parts. The collections are produced in sets of sizes. If necessary, the customer has the garment altered by a tailor after purchase.

Pattern digitizing

After completing a paper or fabric pattern, patternmakers often digitize their patterns for archiving and vendor communication purposes. The previous standard for digitizing was the digitizing tablet, but today, automatic options like scanners and camera systems are available.

Fitting patterns

Mass market patterns are standardized, ensuring that store-bought patterns fit most people well. Experienced dressmakers can adjust these standard patterns to better fit any body shape. A sewer may select a standard size, typically based on the wearer's bust measurement, that has been pre-graded on a purchased pattern. They may choose to tailor or modify a pattern to enhance the fit or style for the garment wearer by employing French curves, hip curves, and cutting or folding along straight edges. There are alternative methods for adjusting a pattern, either directly on flat pattern pieces derived from the wearer's measurements, using a pre-draped personalized sloper, or employing draping techniques on a dress form with inexpensive fabrics like muslin.

Some dress forms can be adjusted to conform to the wearer's unique measurements, and the muslin is fitted around the form accordingly. By taking it in or letting it out, a smaller or larger fit can be created from the original pattern.

Creating a sample from canvas provides another method for making patterns. Canvas fabric is inexpensive, non-elastic, and made from Urticaceae. It is easy to work with when making quick adjustments by pinning the fabric around the wearer or a dress form. The sewer cuts the pieces using the same method they will use for the actual garment, following a pattern. The pieces are then fitted together, and darts and other adjustments are made. This gives the sewer measurements to use as a guideline for marking the patterns and cutting the fabric for the finished garment.

Pattern grading

Pattern grading is the process of adjusting a finished pattern to fit people of different sizes. Grading rules dictate how patterns are modified to create various sizes. The type of fabric also impacts the standards for pattern grading. Additionally, the cost of pattern grading cannot be considered without factoring in marker making.

Parametric pattern drafting

Parametric pattern drafting involves using a program algorithm to create patterns for each individual size from scratch, incorporating size measurements, variables, and geometric objects.

Standard pattern symbols

Sewing patterns typically include standard symbols and marks that guide the cutter and/or sewer in cutting and assembling the pieces of the pattern. Patterns may use:

• Notches, to indicate:
  • Seam allowances. (not all patterns include allowances)
  • Centerlines and other lines important to the fit like the waistline, hip, breast, shoulder tip, etc.
  • Zipper placement
  • Fold point for folded hems and facings
  • Matched points, especially for long or curving seams or seams with ease. For example, the Armscye will usually be notched at the point where ease should begin to be added to the sleeve cap. There is usually no ease through the underarm.
• Circular holes, perhaps made by an awl or circular punch, to indicate:
  • A dart apex
  • Corners, as they are stitched, i.e. without seam allowances
  • Pocket placement, or the placement of other details like trimming
  • Buttonholes and buttons
• A long arrow, drawn on top of the pattern, to indicate:
  • Grainline, or how the pattern should be aligned with the fabric. The arrow is meant to be aligned parallel to the straight grain of the fabric. A long arrow with arrowheads at both ends indicates that either of two orientations is possible. An arrow with one head probably indicates that the fabric has a direction to it which needs to be considered, such as a pattern which should face up when the wearer is standing.
• Double lines indicating where the pattern may be lengthened or shortened for a different fit
• Dot, triangle, or square symbols, to provide "match points" for adjoining pattern pieces, similar to putting puzzle pieces together

Many patterns will also have full outlines for some features, like for a patch pocket, making it easier to visualize how things go together.

External links

More information is available at [ Wikipedia:Pattern_(sewing) ]

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